UL-1 cutting out

[charlotte515]

Basically new UL-1 stock setup with Tactic radio. It is cutting off after a couple of laps. I can turn the Tx off and back on and it will power up long enough to get it back to shore.

Not range related, thought it might be water in the receiver but took the case off and it's dry. No heat issues either.

Any suggestions?

[Rumdog]

Stock prop? My guess is the esc is shot.

[charlotte515]

Stock prop? My guess is the esc is shot.

Stock prop sheared a blade, Graupner 2317.45, 2 blade 45mm dia, 63mm pitch.
4s2p 5000 25c, was not running hot. Had 2 or 3 runs with this prop.

[Rumdog]

I'd say it was overpropped and the esc went bad on you. Are the caps bulged? Even if they're not, i'd bet it's the esc. I didi the same thing on my first UL-1 with the same outcome.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Go back to the stock prop and see what it does before you consider the ESC. Also, make sure your water cooling is up to par.

[charlotte515]

Ok thanks, tried a x440

At full throttle it runs good, when I let off it shuts down. I assume this a cooling issue? I prefer to slow down during the runs. Has anybody installed a small water pump to cool down the esc and motor when not running flat out?

[detox]

Do not buy a new esc, soldering on new capacitors will bring the esc back to life.

[ncornacchi]

Detox is right.... I have 5- Ul's, all in different states of builds, rebuilds, improvements and upgrades. And we have all found in these forums that adding caps to your stock ESC makes the boat very reliable. I have found that gluing and stacking 2-caps on top of the esc is the easiest way to solder them to the 12 gauge wire. Twist the leads together as tight as you can to the caps. Strip the 12gauge wire and tin it. Twist the cap leads onto the tinned wire and solder. Coat with 3M liquid electrical tape. For better cooling, ream out the water pickup slot on the rudder and ream out the vertical slot in the rudder for more water flow. I found that splitting the water feed separately to the esc and motor seems to make everything run cooler. I even once glued on a water scoop over the pickup slot to force feed more water in, but lost 4 mph in speed and started making the boat hospital hop (chime walk). I still like the scoop idea, but am trying to come up with a smaller scoop...This is all just my 2 cents worth of suggestions..........Norm

[charlotte515]

Sounds good, where can I get the caps? Did a search here and did not get any links. Thanks David


Detox is right.... I have 5- Ul's, all in different states of builds, rebuilds, improvements and upgrades. And we have all found in these forums that adding caps to your stock ESC makes the boat very reliable. I have found that gluing and stacking 2-caps on top ohing aboutf the esc is the easiest way to solder them to the 12 gauge wire. Twist the leads together as tight as you can to the caps. Strip the 12gauge wire and tin it. Twist the cap leads onto the tinned wire and solder. Coat with 3M liquid electrical tape. For better cooling, ream out the water pickup slot on the rudder and ream out the vertical slot in the rudder for more water flow. I found that splitting the water feed separately to the esc and motor seems to make everything run cooler. I even once glued on a water scoop over the pickup slot to force feed more water in, but lost 4 mph in speed and started making the boat hospital hop (chime walk). I still like the scoop idea, but am trying to come up with a smaller scoop...This is all just my 2 cents worth of suggestions..........Norm

[Jeff Wohlt]

Kintec racing has them for $1 each

[LiPo Power]

I had the same problem going on with my UL-1! Only full speed and had to rearm ESC every time I ease up on throtle. Cap was gone and replaced with larger capacity. No issues sice then.
Check this out:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=9828