Leopard 4082 motor mount photos

[AlanD]

I've received my new T180 and Leopard 4082 motor along with the OSE carbon fibre motor mount. I know I need to raise the motor mount off the floor. Personally, I'd prefer to use taller side panels on the mount rather than put blocks under the ones that come with it.

Can some of you who have this motor and ESC combination in their BJ29 share some photos of how they arranged things and got it all setup?
Thanks.

[chipgibbs]

You shouldn't have to raise the mount. Try elongating the holes thru the side plates until it'll sit where you need it. The lower the motor can sit the better for center of gravity but, it may not line up with the existing stuffing tube.
If you do have to raise it, do NOT just epoxy it on top of some risers. you'll need to add some carbon fiber or fiberglass fillets on all 4 sides of the mount side plates or it'll break off the first time it flips. And it IS gonna flip with that much power.

CG3

[RayR]

Turn the face plate upside down to gain more vertical clearance.

[AlanD]

This is what I started out with. I have cut two notches into the stock wood mount base. The new mount will tuck into the notches but the new mount still needs to be raised about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch for the shaft to align. (I really dont want to have to redrill a new shaft hole just for the sake of a motor upgrade) The plan is to glass in whatever blocks or platform I use to raise the mount.

The blue tape is where I masked off to fibreglass the inside of the hull along inside of the deck and hull joint. Some posters reported horror stories of seperated hulls after upgrading motors. Might as well do it while I have full access.

I'd like to see where others have located the Seaking 180 ESC. The motor wires on the ESC are pretty short so the ESC cant go back in the original location unless one creates extensions for the motors wires. There's not a lot of room forward of the motor either so I need some ideas. Pics would be great.

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[tlandauer]

A much simpler solution is to use the stock mount and make a rear support for the motor, Alan, most people who use this mount have ripped the entire wooden platform out, I like your ingenious way of thinking but in my opinion since you want minimal alteration, a rear support like what I made is simpler. If you still want to use the inner lid, plan carefully so you have enough motor clearance, it is tight even on the stock mount.
Excuse me for jumping in.
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[AlanD]

tlandauer, thanks for the input and pics. Your layout is what I originally was going to do, and its exactly what my local hobby store guy suggested too. The reason I diverted from that plan was I thought I would need the additional cooling provided by the front cooling bracket on the OSE mount. The LHS guy said he didnt think I'd need the added cooling.

On second thoughts I might be better off using the stock mount, but use the rear ring bracket from the OSE mount to fashion a rear support, then use the longer 4068 cooling jacket as opposed to the 4050 which will give me back the additional cooling I lost by not using the water cooled front bracket on the new mount.

Thats a lot of horse power you have for a MG!! :)

[lenny]

Hey Doc,
Do you have a tie strap to go over the motor to the spacer to keep the motor from flapping up ?
That is some big block you have in there and cap bank to.
Are you running 5s in that setup, If so what gps speed have you gotten with it ?
Also I like stock mount to, It lets you get the motor out and in pretty easy,
Thinking of putting one in my 36"shockwave mod to FE for that reason to.

[tlandauer]

I am not home on a real computer,
@Alan, the longer cooling jacket is a great idea, for me I am not fond of the front cooling plate, in fact on my DF 26 I don't even connect it with hose, if your set up is right, the motor should never be that hot.
@Lenny, the zip tie is to hold the water hose,motor is very stable even before I made the rear support. This is a 4s2p set up.GPS 53.5 mph.

[AlanD]

For those trying to do the same thing, here are the pics of the finished Leopard 4082/1600 install. I took the rear O bracket of the OSE carbon motor mount and cut notches to accomodate the rear casing screws on the Leopard 4082 to get the O bracket at the very end. This allowed me to get the 68mm water jacket on instead of the 50mm jacket that goes with the OSE carbon motor mount. It's a close fit but it works great if you take your time.

After some snuffing around at Home Depot I found a gutter fitting that had a nice 90 degree bend in hard PVC from which I fashioned my L brackets. (I love my Dremel.) I tacked the L brackets the hull to align with the O bracket using 5 minute epoxy. Once set, I fiberglassed the brackets in.

Since I'm using the stock Blackjack motor mount I couldn't rotate the jacket instake completely to the ideal 6 o'clock position unless I turned the whole jacket around. The 68mm jacket intakes are not adjustable so I had to settle for the 3 o'clock alignment. I used the 1/4" water tubing all around. (large on OSE web site)

I trimmed about 3/16" (5mm) off the Leopard 4082 shaft to make it the same length as the Dynamite motor. The stock ProBoat 5mm collet did require a few hits with the dremel with a stone tip to get the collet to seat all the way on. The Leopard shaft fits tighter than the Dynamite even though they're supposedly both 5mm shafts. Keep your stock 10mm bolts to use on the Leopard. You'll also note Tlandauer's suggestion of the silicon tube over the top end of the stuffing tube. It does a great job of keeping grease and water out the radio box.

There are 2 goofy plastic tabs on the bottom of the case of the SeaKing 180 ESC which the dremel took care of in order for it to lie snuggly in the corner of the tray with industrial velcro. Someone of this forum suggested using the Leopard 5.5mm bullets that come with the motor to connect to the ESC. Good call on that. The added capacitor bank on the ESC comes with about 30 feet of stupid wire and dangles freely. Maybe they think you'll keep that in your pocket while you run the boat. Lord knows its long enough! I trimmed that and zip tied it to the PCB mounted cap bank. Hatch tape does a great job of sticking the second receiver wire to the tray.

My COG was brought forward about an inch with the added weight. This motor is heavy. To compensate I moved the batteries back a litle.

Horizon Hobby happily replaced my wonky stock shaft with a new one which is installed along with the stock prop. (They're warranty is FANTASTIC)

OUTCOME:
Holy crap!! Its fast. First run was 3 x 2 minute intervals of WOT, each time returning to check temps. Motor 101 degrees, ESC 98 degrees, batteries about 100 degrees. Yesterday I ran 5.5 minutes WOT and motor was 118 degrees, ESC about 105, batteries 115. No cooling issues here and quieter than the stock motor too.

Some minor bouncing at WOT but nothing unexpected.

Hit me up if I didnt cover anything here.

[AlanD]

More pics...

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[tlandauer]

@ ALanD, wow. this looks great! Love your rear mount. Everything looks so neat!
Enjoy and happy boating!

[e.looijenga]

Awesome setup you've got there.

Verstuurd van mijn GT-N7100 met Tapatalk

[olwarbirds]

Alan, nicely done. As TL said "very clean"....we will shortly be running 3 different BJ/MG setups...2 running leopard 4082 ..1 is 2000kv other is 2200kv both of them are setup to run 6S and do so with NO issues...third is a twin thats gonna be running 2 leopard 3674 2200kv 4S setup...PB has a nice hull design here just needs some tweaking/strenghtening...instead of expanding foam I use pool noodles... DJ

[AlanD]

Thanks DJ. An early career working on Messerschmitt helicopter electrical systems taught me a lot of discipline on keeping things neat. I'm loving this new motor so far.

You'll need to share some video of the twin 2200 when you get it going. Will that be a MG 29 hull?

[olwarbirds]

Alan, I will share some photos and vids here very soon. Got a new digicam and PC (wooohooo) ....
Leopard 4082 2000kv BJ hull OSE SK 180 amp esc, traxxas WP servo, OSE upgraded flexshaft...
Leopard 4082 2200kv was a MG..totally modified, CF throughout inside of hull, CF motor mount stand OSE motor mount (supports front and rear) OSE 180 amp with capbank esc, traxxas waterproof servo ( I use these in all my boats) CF battery trays, offset rudder, OSE upgraded flexshaft...4S its fast 6S OMG ! ...currently drawing up paint and graphics scheme...
leopard 3674 2200kv Twin is a BJ hull..thats been totally modified too...One of the OSE members built it and did an awesome job..on his test run he hit a log and messed up the hull a bit, so I'll have some rebuilding to do, no biggie cuz Im not into stock paint jobs anyways, plus I have to put my Hobbytown USA/Rebel yell racing team graphics on it....I'm still tryn to decide on the battery setup for it ...IE 4S/6S what esc's etc..... DJ