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My trusty old Titan 33 met an untimely death this past August so it's time for a new P-mono. I wanted a hull that could race competitively, yet something a little different. So I thought about getting a Seaducer. For those that don't know, the Seaducer is a very popular hull amongst the Nitro clan. The first time I saw on run I thought it was butt ugly and looked like Navy destroyer plowing the ocean during the mill. But when the race started that sucker took off, cut through the race chop like butter and lapped the entire field. That boat belonged to multiple IMPBA record holder Kentley Porter. Anyway, I did some research on the boating web boards, talked to a few people who have success running the Seaducer and decided to order one.
I emailed Jerry at Seaducer telling them I was interested in getting a hull for FE use and got a prompt email back from Rose. A few weeks later a pretty yellow 33 SD3 with 3" rails showed up at my doorstep. One thing I was slightly disappointed in was that the web site stated all hulls were CF. This one was glass. I emailed Doug Smock and asked him what he thought and he assured me the hull should be fine for heat racing. Build quality appears to be pretty solid. Less flex in the hull than my Aeromarine hulls. There are some scuff marks on the gelcoat and I thought the rail installation was a little sloppy.
First thing I did was lay a bit of CF cloth between the rails. I did this for a little extra strength and also because I wanted the area between the rails to be black. Grease and oil getting slung off the motor and flex shaft doesn’t make for a pretty interior in a yellow hull. I bolted the Seaducer hardware as directed on their web site. In my research I was told by many people to mount the hardware and set the boat up like Jerry tells you or the boat will not run right. I built a 2" long stuffing tube chamber out of 1/8" ply sealed in epoxy. This allows movement of the stuffing tube when the strut is adjusted. I purchased some Williams Racing rail mounts and did a little grinding to relieve the sharp corners on the top of the mounts. I also took a bit off the bottoms to allow the mounts to set lower in the boat. The rails on the ‘ducer are only about 5/8" high.
I found myself scratching my head trying to figure out how to mount the steering servo. It seemed no matter how I positioned the servo there was very little room as the transom is very short in that hull. I finally realized some guys are using mini sized servos. So I picked up a Hitec 5245MG servo that has 76 oz/in @ 6V. I love the OSE aluminum servo mounts and even though they are built for standard sized servos, I shimmed the mini up with some epoxy sealed plywood and came up with the installation pictured.
Thats about it for now. My Neu 1515/1Y is on its way back from a factory check up and new bearings. As soon as I recieve it I'll do an final motor mount installation and stuffing shaft alignment. BTW, 4S packs will not fit outside the rails on this hull. I'm going to use 2S packs on the outside. Either a four 2S packs for 4S2P or maybe a Aussie 1P setup using two Thunderpower 45C 6500's.
Thanks to andym and Doug Smock for their help!!!
As always, suggestions and input are always appreciated!!!!
I emailed Jerry at Seaducer telling them I was interested in getting a hull for FE use and got a prompt email back from Rose. A few weeks later a pretty yellow 33 SD3 with 3" rails showed up at my doorstep. One thing I was slightly disappointed in was that the web site stated all hulls were CF. This one was glass. I emailed Doug Smock and asked him what he thought and he assured me the hull should be fine for heat racing. Build quality appears to be pretty solid. Less flex in the hull than my Aeromarine hulls. There are some scuff marks on the gelcoat and I thought the rail installation was a little sloppy.
First thing I did was lay a bit of CF cloth between the rails. I did this for a little extra strength and also because I wanted the area between the rails to be black. Grease and oil getting slung off the motor and flex shaft doesn’t make for a pretty interior in a yellow hull. I bolted the Seaducer hardware as directed on their web site. In my research I was told by many people to mount the hardware and set the boat up like Jerry tells you or the boat will not run right. I built a 2" long stuffing tube chamber out of 1/8" ply sealed in epoxy. This allows movement of the stuffing tube when the strut is adjusted. I purchased some Williams Racing rail mounts and did a little grinding to relieve the sharp corners on the top of the mounts. I also took a bit off the bottoms to allow the mounts to set lower in the boat. The rails on the ‘ducer are only about 5/8" high.
I found myself scratching my head trying to figure out how to mount the steering servo. It seemed no matter how I positioned the servo there was very little room as the transom is very short in that hull. I finally realized some guys are using mini sized servos. So I picked up a Hitec 5245MG servo that has 76 oz/in @ 6V. I love the OSE aluminum servo mounts and even though they are built for standard sized servos, I shimmed the mini up with some epoxy sealed plywood and came up with the installation pictured.
Thats about it for now. My Neu 1515/1Y is on its way back from a factory check up and new bearings. As soon as I recieve it I'll do an final motor mount installation and stuffing shaft alignment. BTW, 4S packs will not fit outside the rails on this hull. I'm going to use 2S packs on the outside. Either a four 2S packs for 4S2P or maybe a Aussie 1P setup using two Thunderpower 45C 6500's.
Thanks to andym and Doug Smock for their help!!!
As always, suggestions and input are always appreciated!!!!
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Getting a good collection of parts for the build so far...
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