miss geico bouncing problem!

[4343]

hi, I also have the miss geico electric. I having problems with bouncing up and down even when I put half the battery forward out over battery trays, what did you do to stop this? could I add more ply wood to lengthen battery trays to push packs up further??

[photohoward1]

Raise the strut as high as you can. it will help a little. I have a custom strut on mine. raised it about 3/16" above the bottom of the sponson. stopped all bouncing.
You need to customize the strut for this. Bad design all around on the hardware.

[4343]

I thought lowering the strut will make the nose come down and stop bouncing? where did you get your custom strut?

[d.a.v.e]

Lowering will raise the nose, raising it will lower the nose.

Its hard to completely eliminate the bounce but you can if you get the batteys & strut set right. Some folks suggest off setting the rudder as well to reduce bonce. I've done this but not sure it really helped other then with maintenance.

[4343]

what about adding more battery tray up front added on to existing one to move lipos up?

[d.a.v.e]

You don't need to, you can get it leveled out pretty well with the strut adjustment. I also find sometimes moving the pack back helped.

My biggest problem with leveling this boat is that I have 3 different types/sizes of batteries that I run. When I run 4 cells they need to be placed differently then the two cells vs the 2 cell soft packs I have. If I was smarter I would mark where I find they work but then if you change props it seems to change the formula again. I have in the past had it almost eliminated but as I tend switch props a fair amount I have come to accept that the bouncing does not seem to hurt much. It does not gain that much more speed or handling improvement when getting it out so I get it pretty close and call it good.

[4343]

I want to put bearings in my geico strut, any idea what size to go in?

[brushlessfreak]

kintec offset rudder stopped all of my bouncing,as well as raising the strut up a little

[fox41]

I run my batteries, 2x2 s, 9 3/4 inches from outside transom to rear of batteries , battery placement very touchy, I move them 1/8 inch at a time,depending on wind conditions, strut is 1/8 inch above mounting bracket. Stock prop 32mph, x642, 34.7 with Kentect offset, 36.4 with Kentect removed, switched to m445, speed 38.4 mph kept adjusting run 39+ mph easy, no kentect offset, my best stock mph other than prop and truing hull is 40.2 with a light tailwind, all speed on a Garmin Foretrax gps. I mount Garmin forward of batteries , runs pretty smooth, I have used this set up a summer and half, remember airplanes, subs, race cars are all sensitive to weight movement.
Steve

[Boomer]

The MG bounce has been an issue since the first boats were released. I have tried all the published tweaks and adjustments with one exception and that was to true up the imperfections on the bottom of the sponsons. I have eliminated most of the bounce, but still have a little at the top end.

The more power I added the smoother the ride. I have wondered if adding trim tabs could help. I purchased a pair but have not gotten around to installing them. The real race boats use them (K-planes) thus my curiosity about them working on my MG.

These tabs are used on gas boats successfully so my thinking was they might work on the MG. Wondering if anyone has installed a pair on their MG?

Boomer

[tlandauer]

Lowering will raise the nose, raising it will lower the nose.

Its hard to completely eliminate the bounce but you can if you get the batteys & strut set right. Some folks suggest off setting the rudder as well to reduce bonce. I've done this but not sure it really helped other then with maintenance.

I haven't seen any improvement for the bounce, the Kintec off-set did elimenate chine walk---this is just with my hull. I don't recall anybody has chine walk problem. But the bounce is much worse with the off-set rudder. I didn't bother to post or ask any more questions since most of the people have moved on to other boats. I am still trying to find the sweet spot. My strut is all the way up, different battery positions, nothing helped. My next move is to true the ride pads. Something I should have done but been avoiding.
@ Boomer: that is something very interesting, love to know if anybody had tried. Remember some posts here said it is unnecessary.

[ron1950]

i took out the wood trays and use velcro and two 4 cells in parallel ...the added weight and maybe a lower cg make it handle much better in smooth and rough water without the hop

[tlandauer]

That is good advice, although I am running 4s2p as well, but on the stock wooden tray. The funny thing is if I run stock rudder, it actually is boderline ok, (hops wise) but it chine walks, with the Kintec it is the opposite. I will see if I can tear the trays down, they are a pain in the neck anyway. Also I want to improve the ride pad, I guess it is a sign of my "maturing" in FE knowledge. When I started , couldn't be bothered with the thought of doing that, but now I want to do it.
Thanks for your input.

[Make-a-Wake]

I fixed the bouncing on mine by selling it lol..............

[tlandauer]

that is wisdom!